It was September 11,2002, not an insignificant date. Because of my natural tendency to over-think situations,I was prepared for tight security as we re-entered U.S.waters after cruising in Canada for the past couple of months. But the easy-going, casual reception we received at U.S.Customs on Drummond Island was a prelude to discovering how unusually friendly people in Northern Michigan can be to total strangers.

���Hi, we just re-entered U.S.waters after being away a couple of months. Here are ourship���s papers, papers for our dog and our passports. What else do you need?��� I expected the usual bureaucratic scrutiny of every document. Stacey and Dimitri, my wife and son, followed my cautious approach by remaining onboard until we were officially checked in. But the clerk, who never looked up, cheerfully answered, ���All I need is $25, and we take Visa if you���re short on cash.��� So much for Homeland Security.

Originally from New York, we had been conditioned to being a bit suspicious of overly friendly people. But cruising in Michigan waters, especially along the shores and islands of the Upper Peninsula, changed us. It all started in Drummond Island with an overnight stay at the Drummond Island Yacht Haven. A fellow boater assisted us in finding our assigned slip, and the staff made a courtesy car available to us to explore the town. Here we did some re-provisioning, having been anchored out in the North Channel and Georgian Bay for the past month. Dinner at the casual Northwoods restaurant introduced us to what soon became one of favorite treats, Great Lakes whitefish.

Anxious for a little culture and civilization, we soon headed for Mackinac Island. Likeother places we visited during our 8,000 mile, one-year voyage, we had heard conflicting stories. On one hand, its Victorian charm, natural beauty and ban on motorized vehicles is a big attraction to summer visitors who want to escape from their busy, noisy, every-day life on the mainland. But this tourist attraction also brings record crowds arriving by ferry, a bizarre number of fudge shops (we wonder who actually eats all the fudge made on this island), redundant gift shops, an unfortunate number of second rate eateries, and a shortage of transient slips. And because all transportation is by horse & buggy, bike or foot,the streets are lined with odoriferous mounds of horse droppings. As we made our way through these minefields, we wondered what the laws were, if any, about walking our dog. However, like other destinations that stir debate, we focused on the positives and had a terrific time.

Supporting our newfound theory that people in Michigan are somehow friendlier than in other parts of the country, two boaters jumped to our assistance as we eased into our slip in the State Harbor Marina. But getting a slip here in season takes some effort. You start by calling the office first thing in the morning and hope you���re not too late to get on the waiting list. You then listen throughout the day for your boat���s name to be called on the VHF. It reminded us of trying to get into our local Outback Steakhouse. Fortunately it was mid-September, and before long we had a slip assignment.

The downside of visiting a tourist town is that you can easily make mistakes in choosing where to eat. Some establishments survive on mediocre food and poor service based on the sheer number of people coming and going. After making a couple of these mistakes, we decided to pack our lunch and see the island by bike. Spending the good part of a day circumnavigating the island, we discovered beautiful, deserted beaches, shaded hiking and horse trails, sacred Indian burial grounds and one dramatic view after another. We eventually worked our way back to town and The Grand Hotel, a magnificent anachronism. Watching the colorful carriages pull up to the grand entrance with guests, we felt like intruders from a different time. Outfitted in our biking attire, we weren���t properly dressed for afternoon tea and crumpets, an activity that seemed to fit the architecture. Instead, a tour of Fort Mackinac, complete with reenactments, gave us an historical perspective of the island as well as a spectacular view of the town below.

Returning to the marina late in the day, we continued to be impressed with the friendly nature of Michigan boaters. Taking advantage of a number of invitations to visit other boats along the docks, we felt like true party-goers. People here were having a good time, and they enjoyed sharing these times with others.

One of the reasons we love to cruise is the ability to quickly change our surroundings. So after a few days of playing tourist, we felt it was time to crank up our trustworthy CAT 3208 and continue our family odyssey. Beaver Island was just 45 miles away, and from what we had read, its unspoiled, unhurried serenity was the opposite of Mackinac. We discovered, however, that we first had to experience the fury and rage of the Great Lakes before we could enjoy the peace and quiet of this remote island.

The weather report told us to expect 10-to-15 knots of wind and 2-foot seas as we left State Harbor Marina in the morning. But as soon as we got beyond the breakwater, we knew the report was dead wrong. As we entered the Straits of Mackinac, an area where the waters of Lakes Michigan, Huron and Superior flow together, all hell broke loose. The conditions caused us to slow down to a speed of 8-to-9 knots, about half our usual cruising speed. With building head seas and the wind now blowing a steady 25 with gusts over 35, I worried about turning south to pass over Grays Reef, a relatively shallow area where I estimated we would be hit by steep, beam seas. Instead, we experienced a phenomenon that I still find hard to explain. At one point we were in following seas, beam seas and even head seas - simultaneously! Sawdust, our stoutly built 43-foot ���lobster yacht,��� was being tossed around as if we were a lone sock in a huge washing machine.

I kept thinking the conditions would improve, especially when I could head west and get in the lee of Beaver Island. But we took a beating all the way into St. James Harbor at the northeast tip of the island. Again, Michigan hospitality was on full display as three men ran out onto the finger pier of Beaver Island Marina, one almost being blown off in the gusty wind, to help us tie up. On our entire 8,000-mile journey, including offshore runs throughout the Bahamas, this was our roughest passage. Welcome to Beaver Island, where apparently you have to earn the peace and quiet you have come for.

We soon met others who had come in earlier, all telling harrowing stories of their crossings from the mainland. One captain told us how his wife wrapped one arm around the pedestal of their saloon table and the other around their dog while they spent four hours on the cabin sole. Another told us his wife was sitting on a doggeddown sofa in their 44-foot motoryacht when it broke loose and almost went through the main saloon windows. Well, stories like these are best told over a bottle of rum, and soon we all found our way to the Shamrock Restaurant and Bar. The peace and quiet would have to wait.

The next day brought calm winds and seas, and while we were anxious to explore the island, we learned that severe weather was on its way. The dock master advised us to head to the mainland today or risk being here for a week. Winter comes early to this part of the world, and since we were headed for Chicago and points south, we reluctantly left Beaver Island after taking a walk along the picturesque waterfront. Even though we had taken a year off to go cruising, there never seemed to be enough time.

We had a smooth, uneventful 35-mile crossing to Harbor Springs, where we would begin our journey down the Michigan coast to Chicago. After refueling at Walstrom���s, we took a slip at the attractive Municipal Marina situated along a beautiful public park area. A quick walk into town for a tasty burger and beer at the Bar Harbor and a stroll down the main street told us we were in for a treat. This is one of those towns that make you think, ���we could live here.��� The art galleries and tasteful shops are complimented by fine restaurants and yet balanced by the presence of casual places like the Bar Harbor.

As the sun set that evening in Harbor Springs we reflected on our good fortune and new experiences.Yes, we were glad to be back home in America. But we were especially glad to have been introduced to cruising a la northern Lake Michigan.