The adage “summertime and the living is easy” certainly does not apply to your boat. If anything, compressing a couple of months of well-earned fun is sure to result in a boat that gets run hard and put away wet more than a few times.

To avoid any paybacks in the form of malfunctions that could interfere with leaving the dock, or worse, breaking down under way, I make sure to devote some time climbing through my bilge, crawling over the engines and basically performing a mid-season survey to determine what needs attention now, and what items can be checked off later.

For me, this means mechanical items get the first look. I am a big fan of changing oil midway through the summer because not only have I run up enough hours to require the service, but spending a few hours in the engineroom is always time well spent. Looking around, touching fittings and hoses can be enlightening. Not long ago I heard a horror story about a loose bolt in the governor housing on a diesel engine falling out and causing the engine to “runaway” until its rpm exceeded its design limit. The engine simply exploded. This owner lost the use of his boat for the entire summer and all because of a loose bolt.

I recall another incident aboard a new boat where an alternator bracket bolt fell into the bilge causing the alternator to drop on top of the water pump belt wiping it out. Moments later the engine, now starved for cooling water, seized, resulting in significant damage. Even scarier, however, was the repair. The engine had to come out of the boat. At first glance, the mechanics were confident the job would be routine because the express boat’s bridge deck was totally removable. In fact, it was designed to expose the engine compartment in case of such a situation. So imagine everyone’s utter surprise when it was learned that the bridge deck could not be lifted off because the inward facing rear tuna tower legs prevented it. By the time the yard was done, the bill escalated to include an additional $18,000 in fiberglass repairs to cut out and replace the built-in fiberglass consoles over the engine and the removal and replacement of the ancillary equipment housed inside the consoles. Once again, all this expense and damage was traced back to a loose bolt.

When you consider how many nuts and bolts and other fasteners are inside an engine compartment you can understand my will of going around with a few tools to check things regularly. I am not a big fan of surprises when I am offshore, so when I find a nut or a fastener in the bilge or on deck, I find where it belongs quickly.

Consider bilge pumps for a moment. Dripless shaft logs are popular on many mid- and upper-tier boats, but there remains countless ways for water to get into the bilge. It could be a leaky deck hatch or a loose bow rail fitting to mention just a couple. A bilge pump’s job is obvious. But more than a few boats have sunk at the dock when an overworked bilge pump drained a battery until it died. No battery juice leads to another problem and often ends with a phone call from the dock master with the news your boat is sitting at the bottom of the marina. Bilge pumps can be easily checked by lifting the float switch and listening for the pump to operate.

Likewise, hose clamps can be examined for tightness with a screwdriver and for integrity with a firm squeeze in a matter of seconds. On one of many bilge searches I discovered a split in a hose that was pouring as much water back into the bilge as was being pumped overboard. Originally, I believed the problem was a weak pump or faulty float switch because the bilge always contained water. So had I not investigated thoroughly, I could have put off the repair unknowingly thereby endangering the crew and boat. Or, I could have bought a new pump and switch and wasted money and then more time with a second trip to the marine store to pick up a length of new hose, which was all I needed in the first place. Other bilge chores that pay off are working the sea valves, inspecting the batteries, cleaning out limber holes and touching up bare metal with fresh paint to prevent rust.

There are dozens of additional small chores you should attend to mid season. Topside, for instance, a good cleaning and waxing will make the boat look fresh as the summer flies by. A metal polish will remove stains from chrome and stainless steel, while wax will prevent aluminum from pitting. Clear enclosure panels will appreciate a treatment to remove water spots followed by a suitable wax to offset deterioration caused by sunlight.
A clean, moist chamois works wonders on removing grime from the displays on electronic equipment. A squirt of de-moisturizing spray should be applied to antenna fittings and power connections. While you are examining the equipment, be sure all ground connections are tight, secure and corrosion free.

A good mid-season chore for the family is a thorough interior cleaning of the boat. Have the kids clean out and rearrange their lockers. Toss old magazines or books that have seen too much water. Wipe out drawers and food stowage areas, including the refrigerator. Empty out stowage lockers on deck and air out spare dock lines. Open up the anchor locker and pull out the nylon rode so the warm air and sun can dry it thoroughly. Take your PFDs and open each one on deck. Inspect for mildew and wash them with mild soap and water and non-chlorine bleach. Air dry each one before stowing.

If you think of mid-season maintenance like half-time at a football game, it will offset much of the drudgery. But should you not have the time to attend to the important details, consider hiring someone at the dock, or have the boat yard do it for you. Your boat really does not care who does the work, but it will appreciate your efforts by showing you a great time for the balance of the summer.