Secret Garden : An Insider's Guide to Chartering in the Virgin Islands

  • Desitinations
  • OCTOBER 2006
    • Part of my job as an editor and writer for an enthusiast title is to inform you on boating issues, events, as well as relay adventures. The ultimate goal is that something you read in our magazine will enrich your family’s boating experience.

      With this professional ethos intact, I agonized on letting you in on a few secrets about chartering in the Virgin Islands. I rationalized that if you don’t know something, you won’t know that you’re missing out. There’s a similar situation in the “New York Times.” Every Sunday they highlight a town in the metropolitan area in the real estate section. Usually, they are the undiscovered gems that are still within a manageable commuting distance from New York City. Then you hear about stories on the following weekend about gangs of urbanites descending onto these placid streets, cell phones strapped to their ears like Captain Kirk, buying up the local residences. It’s just a matter of time before Starbucks arrives and soy milk finds its way onto the local market shelf.

      Chartering in the Virgins is hardly anything new. I’ve been fortunate enough to be doing so for more than a decade. However, my experiences have uncovered a few secret hideaways, and taught me a couple of tricks. I’ve also adapted the way I cruise to make it less of an expedition, and more of a vacation. And one of the best secrets I discovered, recently on a cruise with my family, was the off-season. Shh.

      Selecting A Boat
      For several years, I’ve been chartering Grand Banks from Trawlers in Paradise. Owned by Tommy and Denise McCoy, the company has nine boats in management, and is in the process of adding a few power catamarans. I’m a creature of habit—which is often a bad thing. In any case, I like to hop onto a similar boat every year, which makes understanding systems a little easier. I also enjoy the personalized service the McCoys and their staff offer. Each year when I walk down the dock and talk to mechanics or the cleaning service, it’s like a little bit of a homecoming. (In order to fulfill my journalistic duties I should say that I’ve become good friends with the McCoy’s over the years, and have enjoyed spending time with them outside of chartering.)

      There are a host of other charter companies, such as Nautic Blue, a division of the venerable Moorings. They have an updated fleet of power catamarans and Mainship trawlers and enjoy a first-class reputation. Several smaller and mid-size companies, such as V.I.P., The Catamaran Company, and Tortola Marine Services, also specialize in power vessels. Check out www.boatdigest.com for a full listing of companies.

      One thing I’ve learned is that it pays to go with a bigger boat, even if you’re not going to fill every cabin. Sean and Katie O’Leary and I chartered a Grand Banks 36 two years ago, along with their two kids. Yes the brochure says it sleeps six, but it was a little cramped. Bigger is better. In August, I chartered a Grand Banks 46 for three of us. The extra room was fantastic, and we were able to use one of the three staterooms for extra stuff. I think when kids are on board, bigger is the way to go, allowing you more room to spread out. The power cats certainly help with their larger beam and interior volume if you have a large family.

      Getting Ready To Go
      Over the years, the amount of stuff that I bring has slowly dwindled down to a midsize canvas bag with a few bathing suits, lots of T-shirts, and maybe a few collared shirts. We basically stay in our bathing suits from the morning swim through the evening. There are a few resorts, such as Peter Island and Biras Creek on Virgin Gorda, that require “smart pants” and a collared shirt for dinner.

      I also pack my own snorkel gear. There are several dive shops along the way in both the U.S. and British Virgin Islands if you forget to pack your gear. Expect to pay slightly more than you would in the States.

      Once I arrive in St. Thomas, I’ve found the biggest pain is provisioning. Most charter companies, including Trawlers in Paradise offer a provisioning service. They send you list of selections before your charter, and when you arrive you’ll find a fully stocked boat. I’ve not gone down this path before, but I’m actually considering it for our next trip. In the past, I basically over-purchased. I’ve left the market with three carts full after shelling out more than $1,200. It’s not like we’re leaving civilization! In the end, we always come back with loads of food we give to the folks on the dock at Trawlers in Paradise. On this last trip in August, we scaled it down, bought a lot of fruit and cheese and cracker-type items, and only planned a few dinners on board.

      On The Water
      Navigating the Virgin Islands is fairly straightforward. On my first charter, I got all the charts ready, broke out the GPS, and sat down to plan my routes. It was a good exercise, but learning to identify the land masses around me, and picking out key obstacles visually was the better way to go. It does take vigilance and at least once a season, Tommy tells me of a boat hitting a rock or a reef.

      However, I still review my route each morning, incorporating it as part of a breakfast routine. I make sure I’m aware of any obstacles and let my crew know our route. The beauty of cruising in the Virgin Islands is there are no really long hops. The Grand Banks I’ve chartered are on the slower side, and we’re still looking at a three-hour cruise as our longest typical leg. I always like to leave at a leisurely pace in the morning, stop for lunch and a swim after an hour or so, and then leave at the end of the day arriving in time for an on board happy hour. Keep in mind during the season that you may have to adjust your schedule to arrive in time to beat the crowd to a mooring field or anchorage. (But not in the summer, it’s great.)

      Where To Go
      Okay, I’ll share a few of these secrets with you. Just burn the magazine afterwards. I’m one of those Type A guys, but when I’m on vacation I slip deep into relax mode. Don’t try to arrive and leave on the same day. It can be done, but it sure is a pain. Instead, have a little fruity drink upon arrival and do your shopping.

      I will suggest, unless you have a guest that demands it, try to keep your schedule fairly flexible. My biggest mistake in the past was trying to pack too much into each trip. Everyday we were on the move and I didn’t get to relax as much. It’s nice to wake up on some mornings with no plans. Isn’t that what vacation is all about?

      Ram Head, St. John
      There are several spots in St. John, and my favorite is Ram Head on the south side. You can only use a mooring. There is great snorkeling at the entrance as well as a nice beach. I’ve had this pocket of paradise all to myself even in high season. It’s a great spot to reach on the first day and throw some steaks on the grill and start to relax.

      Jost Van Dyke
      There is a popular hang out, Foxy’s, which you should do at least once. However, I enjoy going around the corner to the eastern side of the island. Try the lobster dinner at Harris’. Tommy and I became roped in one night and were actually bartending for a few people. Then the crowd showed up! For a few hours, I became a character from Herman Wouk’s “Don’t’ Stop The Carnival” imagining I had retired to tend bar on a beachside restaurant. Then some guy complained about the temperature of his beer. It was a nice dream.

      Virgin Gorda
      After a few days of being on the hook, I like to get a slip, wash down the boat, and be able to walk off the boat. Your guests will appreciate this as well. In Gorda Sound, you have a few choices. I usually alternate between the Bitter End Yacht Club and Saba Rock. One nice thing about Bitter End is the pool, which is great for kids. Both of these resorts are boater-friendly and welcome, versus discourage, transient cruisers. After spending several days at Saba Rock this past August I was blown away by the level of service from all the staff. The smaller scale of the resort gave it more of a family feel. At the Bitter End, you have more amenities. Both places are worth a few days of hanging around.

      Norman Island
      There is really nothing on Norman Island except for an old schooner anchored in the harbor that is now a floating restaurant called the William T. It’s a fun place to have dinner and get a little loose. The food is good, the service is great, and the atmosphere is wonderful. At night, when the party gets going, you’ll see a few cannon balls off the top deck. There are several good snorkeling spots within a short distance, including The Indians and The Pelicans.

      Christmas Cove, St. thomas
      This cove is adjacent to Current Cut in St. Thomas’s Jersey Bay, behind St. James Island. It’s another beautiful place to stop on the first day or the last night before returning. The water is crystal clear, the snorkeling is good, and the night view of the lights of St. Thomas is a real eye-catcher.

      Soper’s Hole
      This settlement on the west end of Tortola is the most convenient spot in my opinion to clear customs. For the last several years, I’ve had the same customs and immigration officials, and the process is seamless. Afterwards, a stroll around Pussers and the adjacent shops, along with lunch, is in order.

      Closing note
      These are just a few of my favorite spots. The beauty of the area is that there is so much to see and do, that you’ll never get bored. When you have a chance, drop us a line at editor@boatdigest.com with a few of your own favorite spots. The fist ten respondents will receive a free Boat Digest cap.