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Secret Garden : An Insider's Guide to Chartering in the Virgin Islands
May 7, 2007 - 8:43pm — George Sass Jr.
Part of my job as an editor and writer for an enthusiast title is to inform you on boating issues, events, as well as relay adventures. The ultimate goal is that something you read in our magazine will enrich your family’s boating experience. With this professional ethos intact, I agonized on letting you in on a few secrets about chartering in the Virgin Islands. I rationalized that if you don’t know something, you won’t know that you’re missing out. There’s a similar situation in the “New York Times.” Every Sunday they highlight a town in the metropolitan area in the real estate section. Usually, they are the undiscovered gems that are still within a manageable commuting distance from New York City. Then you hear about stories on the following weekend about gangs of urbanites descending onto these placid streets, cell phones strapped to their ears like Captain Kirk, buying up the local residences. It’s just a matter of time before Starbucks arrives and soy milk finds its way onto the local market shelf. Chartering in the Virgins is hardly anything new. I’ve been fortunate enough to be doing so for more than a decade. However, my experiences have uncovered a few secret hideaways, and taught me a couple of tricks. I’ve also adapted the way I cruise to make it less of an expedition, and more of a vacation. And one of the best secrets I discovered, recently on a cruise with my family, was the off-season. Shh. Selecting A Boat There are a host of other charter companies, such as Nautic Blue, a division of the venerable Moorings. They have an updated fleet of power catamarans and Mainship trawlers and enjoy a first-class reputation. Several smaller and mid-size companies, such as V.I.P., The Catamaran Company, and Tortola Marine Services, also specialize in power vessels. Check out www.boatdigest.com for a full listing of companies. One thing I’ve learned is that it pays to go with a bigger boat, even if you’re not going to fill every cabin. Sean and Katie O’Leary and I chartered a Grand Banks 36 two years ago, along with their two kids. Yes the brochure says it sleeps six, but it was a little cramped. Bigger is better. In August, I chartered a Grand Banks 46 for three of us. The extra room was fantastic, and we were able to use one of the three staterooms for extra stuff. I think when kids are on board, bigger is the way to go, allowing you more room to spread out. The power cats certainly help with their larger beam and interior volume if you have a large family. Getting Ready To Go I also pack my own snorkel gear. There are several dive shops along the way in both the U.S. and British Virgin Islands if you forget to pack your gear. Expect to pay slightly more than you would in the States. Once I arrive in St. Thomas, I’ve found the biggest pain is provisioning. Most charter companies, including Trawlers in Paradise offer a provisioning service. They send you list of selections before your charter, and when you arrive you’ll find a fully stocked boat. I’ve not gone down this path before, but I’m actually considering it for our next trip. In the past, I basically over-purchased. I’ve left the market with three carts full after shelling out more than $1,200. It’s not like we’re leaving civilization! In the end, we always come back with loads of food we give to the folks on the dock at Trawlers in Paradise. On this last trip in August, we scaled it down, bought a lot of fruit and cheese and cracker-type items, and only planned a few dinners on board. On The Water However, I still review my route each morning, incorporating it as part of a breakfast routine. I make sure I’m aware of any obstacles and let my crew know our route. The beauty of cruising in the Virgin Islands is there are no really long hops. The Grand Banks I’ve chartered are on the slower side, and we’re still looking at a three-hour cruise as our longest typical leg. I always like to leave at a leisurely pace in the morning, stop for lunch and a swim after an hour or so, and then leave at the end of the day arriving in time for an on board happy hour. Keep in mind during the season that you may have to adjust your schedule to arrive in time to beat the crowd to a mooring field or anchorage. (But not in the summer, it’s great.) Where To Go I will suggest, unless you have a guest that demands it, try to keep your schedule fairly flexible. My biggest mistake in the past was trying to pack too much into each trip. Everyday we were on the move and I didn’t get to relax as much. It’s nice to wake up on some mornings with no plans. Isn’t that what vacation is all about? Ram Head, St. John Jost Van Dyke Virgin Gorda Norman Island Christmas Cove, St. thomas Soper’s Hole Closing note |