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The Basics of Boat Enclosures
January 7, 2007 - 8:00am — Peter Frederiksen
![]() A tight enclosure can last longer with proper care. Clear enclosures add tremendous utility and comfort to a boat, protecting its occupants and equipment from spray, rain, sun, dirt and wind. But like any part or accessory aboard a boat, clear enclosures need regular care and attention if they are to live long in a marine environment. Most importantly, clear enclosures require specialized treatment to preserve the clear panels so vital to good visibility. There are several types and grades of clear material that can be used successfully in building enclosures. The most common is Isenglass, a clear PVC vinyl available in 20, 30 and 40 mils of thickness.The higher the number of mils, the thicker the grade. Small boats with factory installed enclosure sets usually come with 20-mil material because it?Ĵs lighter and easier to handle in small spaces. Its clarity, however, is not as good as thicker grades because it reacts quickly to changes in temperature. In the cool morning it may appear taut but by afternoon wrinkles can occur as the sun loosens up the panels. This is why on larger boats, the 40-mil stuff is a better choice for visibility, clarity and durability. Properly taken care of, a form fitting Isenglass enclosure could last five years or more, although I have seen relatively young enclosures look old far before their time when abused or mishandled. A big offender is rolling up a salt or grime encrusted panel allowing the impurities to grate against the vinyl. Rolled panels still wet from the morning dew will sustain spotting if the sun beats on it and heats up the droplets. Enclosure panels also should be rolled down at the end of the day to retain its original shape. Even when good care is provided, however, Isenglass will scratch and many of these marks are impossible to remove. An ounce of prevention is the key with this material. A more durable type of clear material is Strataglass, which features a flexible coating over the vinyl to help ward off scratches and offset the effects of ultra-violet sunrays. I have this material on my boat and it has served me well for 10 seasons, although I have replaced zippers and three panels during this time. Strataglass can be scratched but it is more durable than regular Isenglass and has less distortion enhancing visibility throughout its lifetime. Faint scratches can be ameliorated with special products to help restore its condition. Another popular choice is EZ2CY, which is a hard acrylic that accepts soft curves without compromising clarity or breaking. This material is extremely durable and resistant to ultraviolet rays. When looking through this material you will swear you are peering through glass. EZ2CY is more expensive than soft vinyl so some owners will use this product for the front panels and employ the Strataglass for the side and aft sections. Without a doubt, the single biggest factor that determines how well your enclosure lasts is the original installation. Not all canvas shops are equipped to handle EZ2CY, for instance, because the material, unlike soft vinyl cannot be sewn. A good shop will employ different techniques to take advantage of each material. For instance, although a common approach for attaching the panels to the sides of the fly bridge is to use snap fasteners at the bottom, a better and stronger alternative is to employ tracking at the bottom, as well as the top.To protect nylon zippers from deteriorating under the onslaught of sunlight, some shops will add a layer of material over the zippers. Another smart feature is to include narrow opening ports above the clear panels to provide airflow when the panel is in place. Obviously, upgrades add to the cost, but I urge you to ask a lot of questions and look over examples of the canvas shop?Ĵs work before committing. And ask not only to see the shop?Ĵs most recent work, but also examples of its craftsmanship that is a few years old to gauge the durability of the work. If you can find a boat similar to yours, this is better still. Quality work comes at a price, but a high price does not necessarily mean quality work. With your enclosure should come instructions on how best to care for the material you have selected. If not, ask the canvas shop for its recommendations. I once ruined a panel of a new enclosure by treating it with Rain-X because the chemicals in it reacted with the clear vinyl. Keep in mind also that an enclosure incorporates a number of different materials, each with its own specifications for care. In addition to the clear panels, for example, there are zippers, snaps, stitching and the vinyl or fabric material, which borders the clear material. My express boat needs an enclosure because I start boating early in the spring and continue late into the fall. My enclosure protects me from the wind and chill, as well as spray and rain. It keeps the electronics dry. Because of my dependence on my enclosure, I baby it and enjoy the fruit of my labor each time the boat leaves the dock. My strategy for enclosure care borders on anal, but I also have the best looking enclosure at my dock despite its age. After returning from an outing, I roll down the side panels and let them hang using the zipper partway to hold the panel in place and still allow air to circulate through the bridge until it is totally dry. When rinsing the clear vinyl I always use a soft spray of water.A harsh stream will drive dirt, salt or other impurities into the vinyl creating a myriad of minute scratches that will be visible later. Once the enclosure has been thoroughly wet, I employ a soft sudsy mitt and clean only the vinyl using plenty of rinse water during hot weather so the suds do not dry, which can lead to streaking. The outside of the enclosure sees similar attention. Likewise, I use a separate chamois to dry the enclosure. ![]() Wash your enclosure after each run. Although I have seen some folks use squeegee blades for wiping off wet enclosures, I have not joined that camp yet, because I prefer the softer chamois material instead of a flexible blade. I also stow the mitt and chamois apart from my other cleaning tools to avoid transferring dirt or other impurities to the enclosure material. I probably spend more time on the enclosure than any other part of the boat, but it is a necessary operation in my mind and worth the effort. Twice a month I will apply Collinite Insulator Wax #845 or Fiberglass Boat Wax #925 to my clear panels, but only after thoroughly washing it as described above. I use a new, clean sponge to apply the wax and wipe it off with an old, but clean and soft AC/DC tee shirt. (Next month the editor wants me to write about stereo systems!) Strataglass also recommends products from IMAR for this procedure, which is available through its dealer network. EZ2CY has other suggestions for maintaining its acrylic material, which should be obtained from your canvas shop. |